Secrets of Firenze
Tour Itinerary
Sean David Burke 2009
Thank you for your interest in the "Secrets of Firenze" Tour.
The Tour is my personal reflection on the city as a place both of historical significance and of vibrant contemporary energy and artistry. The choices of places to visit are personal choices. While we will pass by and comment on some of the 'major attractions' of Florence, such as the Duomo and the Bargello, the value of this tour is in allowing greater appreciation of aspects that might easily be missed by tourists on a tight schedule. It is a tour that delights in the small, the quirky, the exquisite and the fascinating things that exist 'just around the corner from' the monuments that everyone always sees.
The tour is a self-guided walking tour with two options. The first takes about 45 mins and the second (an extension of the first) takes about 1 hr 15 mins, travelling at a leisurely pace. It is aimed at adults, and interested young adults, from about 14 years up. Children may find it a little difficult. Please consider wearing a hat if it is sunny and take some water to drink along the way.
Print this itinerary, or transfer it to your mobile electronic device, and wander down to the Duomo when you are ready.
http://secretsoffirenze.blogspot.com
We begin at the base of the steps with our backs to the central doors of the Duomo, facing the golden doors of the Baptistry;
| Directions | Focus | Comments |
| Stand between the Duomo and the Baptistery, facing the golden doors of the Baptistry | The 'Gates of Paradise' | The Baptistry dates to the 4th century and is one of the oldest standing buildings in Florence. The Cathedral was placed to face it in the 13th century. Let your eyes follow the line from the top of the Baptistry to the base of the doors and then turn and follow the line up the centre of the Duomo, and return. Ghiberti 'won' a completion to design the doors, which was also entered by Donatello and Brunelleshi and others. ..Actually, if you (later) go to the Bargello and find the competition panels (on the first floor, above the entry), you might agree with my judgement and that of my daughter, Bonnie, then 8 years, that the panel by Brunelleshi is superior. Perhaps the course of history would have been different if Ghiberti had not prevailed. It took him 28 years to complete. The doors constitute an iconic centre to the city. |
| Turn left and walk all around the Baptistry and to the traffic signal at the north-west corner of Piazza San Giovanni. | | On the way, stop at the southern side of the baptistery and see the doors by Pisano, which originally had the prestige position on the east side, facing the Duomo. You may also like to see the doors on the north side, also by Ghiberti, his 'warm-up' for the golden doors. They took 21 years. There he has followed the layout of Pisano. Careful crossing this road, the busiest one on the tour. |
| We cross Via Dei Cerretani on the green signal and walk north up Borgo San Lorenzo | | You will come to the Piazza and Cathedral of San Lorenzo. This is a beautiful church worth visiting (later) to see the frescoes on the concave of the dome, especially the one in the northern corner, which is superbly three-dimensional. |
| Continue up Via Dei Ginori, then left on Via Taddea | | Via Taddea is a good place to stop and ponder why the local authorities have not managed to deal with the graffiti problem. Some graffiti, of course, is art. There is a toilet on the left. |
| Turn left at Hotel Botticelli and proceed down Via Rosina. | | Pause at the end of Via Rosina. The dome you can see from here is the dome of San Lorenzo, not the Duomo. Before you is the piazza of the Mercato Centrale, also known as Mercato San Lorenzo. At night it is a popular al fresco eating spot. |
| Turn right and proceed with the market building on your left. | | During this tour we avoid the street market that takes up most of San Lorenzo. On your right you will notice many kebab shops and African and Asian grocery stores. Firenze is an international city. |
| Continue toward the Oviesse sign, by crossing Via Panicale and going down Via Chiara. Turn left at Via Nazionale. | | Via Nazionale will take you to the train station. Not now. |
| Walk two blocks and turn left on Via Faenza | | Via Faenza is my favourite street in Florence. Behind us, across Via Nazionale and halfway down is Ostello Archi Rossi, the best youth hostel around, and at the very end, a great Indian Kebab shop. In front of us... |
| | Alice's Masks | A little way ahead on the left you will see a shop with some nice greenery growing around the door. This is Alice's Masks, the business of Agostino and Alice Dessi. This shop is a living museum of art and beauty. Inside you will be able to see the various designs that have been originated by these artists over the decades as well as to see them in the process of creation. If you wish to buy a mask, I suggest you come back later to look as it will otherwise make the tour much longer. It took me weeks to choose a mask! Do mention me to Mr Dessi and show him this itinerary.
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| Continue down Via Faenza | | On the right, the Church of San Jacopo 1206, originally a templar church. Then, by contrast, Toscanet, the cleanest and maybe the fastest internet cafe in Florence. A little further, the new Asian masala mini mart. It's nice to find Indian sweets and spices sometimes, even in Florence. |
| Come to the Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini | | On the left, you will see that the city also has problems dealing with the amount of rubbish created here every day. |
| Continue across and down Via Dei Conti. Take the right fork at the three wooden doors. | | On the left on Via Dei Conti, notice Ceramica Ricceri at number 14. There are many ceramic shops in Florence and this is one that takes care to honour traditions. |
| | | After the fork, on the right, when you get to the little Via Dall'all Oro, find the stencil graffiti on the right wall that says Big Luciano Santo Subito, and wonder why anyone would make a stencil and call for sainthood for Luciano Pavarotti. |
| Back at Via Dei Cerratani, turn left. The Duomo is ahead of you, the train station behind. Walk about 20m to the crosswalk, cross carefully and turn left. | | |
| Turn right at Piazza Dell' Olio, which is really a street not a piazza, right at Via Dei Pecori and then across the crosswalk to go under the colonnade of Via Brunelleschi. Cross Via Tosinghi and continue. | | The colonnade, and much of Florence, is inhabited by buskers and beggars. The buskers are sometimes very good. I like to encourage the good ones and discourage the ones that I wouldn't like to see again. It would be good if the city prohibited the use of electronic amplifiers. The beggars are mostly Romany, and apparently often related to each other. They add to the colour of the city and fulfil an ancient archetype absent in many cities in the new world. Whether you give them anything or not, please do not be dismissive or disrespectful of them. Be friendly. |
| Pause at the Arch of Piazza Republicca | | Look at the buildings that can be seen as you stand under the arch. They are mostly of a certain age and style (19th century). We will have a comparison in a few moments. |
| Turn right and proceed down Via Degli Strozzi | | At the first intersection, look to your left down Via Dei Sassetti. At the end is the Palazzo Davanzati. We will be there in a minute. |
| Cross Via Dei Sassetti and go up to Piazza Degli Strozzi and enter the piazza. | | The Palazzo Strozzi has many exhibitions, often with free entry. |
| Walk to the south with Palazzo Strozzi on your right. | | On the left is the Odeon Theatre, a beautiful theatre in an old palazzo which shows many English language movies. |
| Continue down the narrow Via Monalda to Via Porta Rossa and turn left. | | Porta Rossa means red door, and there is one in front of you. If you turned right here instead of left it would take you to the major fashion houses on Via Dei Tornabuoni. Resist the urge. |
| Stop at the Palazzo Davanzati. | Palazzo Davanzati | This is the best example of a Florentine tower house and has just recently been fully opened, with occasional access to all four floors, rooftop verandah, mezzanine and basement. Entry is free. Open most mornings. The architecture and displays inside make it a place not to be missed. Come back later and spend at least an hour, but if there is a chance you might miss it, then go in now, this tour be hanged! |
| Continue down Via Porta Rossa and turn right into Via Pellicceria | | The building on the left is the general post office. On the right, notice Valmar, a shop with a beautiful range of traditional tassels and tapestry. |
| Walk up toward the Palazzo Guelfi until the Irish pub The Old Stove is on your left. | | On your right is a little lane, Vicolo Del Panico. There is a gate. Push it and go and see the relief of Madonna and Child at the end. This wall and the buildings are actually part of the Palazzo Davanzati complex. In the street to the right of the Old Stove is a little eatery and wine bar where you can have a traditional Tuscan snack. |
| Continue on south past the Palazzo Guelfi, now a library and police station and down the narrow Chiassa di San Biacio | | Look behind you. The newer, 19th century developments you can see did not reach here, due to lack of funds. Lucky, otherwise this much older area would no longer exist. |
| Turn left on Via Delle Terme. | | The police now inhabit the Palazzo Guelfi on left. Just past the nice little grocery store on the right (nice salty focaccia in there) don't miss Chiassa di Manetti on the right. There is an interesting relief of the Baptism of Christ on the right wall. |
| Continue on Via Delle Terme. | | At the end on the right there is another ceramics shop. Many of these pieces are reminiscent of the antiques on display in Palazzo Davanzati. The Piazza Porcellino is one block to the left. It is not on the tour, but don't forget to go and put a coin in the boar's mouth later. |
| Turn right on Via Por Santa Maria and cross the road. | | This road will take you to the Ponte Vecchio, not on the tour. Go there at night. |
| Turn left on Via Lambertesca | | At the end you will see an old olive tree, which commemorates the terrorist bomb planted by the mafia that killed 6 people here in 1993. |
| Proceed on the right under the arch into the Piazzale Degli Uffizi | | If you want, you can nip down to the river on the right for a view of the Ponte Vecchio, but the tour goes the other way. It is wise to book in advance for the Ufizzi. The ticket office is here on the right as we move on. |
| Turn left and exit into the Piazza Della Signoria | | Walk around the Loggia on your left to the statue of The Rape of the Sabines by Giambologna, which is the three-figured statue on the front-right of the Loggia. No, that is only a copy of David. The real one is better and in the Academia. |
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| The Rape of the Sabines | Leaving aside its theme of male domination (which is echoed in a number of nearby works) the statue by Giambologna is one of the most important pieces of art in the city. It was constructed out of the artist's desire to create a work that would spiral and exist without a definite frontal orientation. It is apparently the first major work to achieve this end. Being able to accept the ambiguity of more than one perspective is basic to pluralist society. The theme is thus unfortunate, even if we accept that it is more of a kidnap, in the historical context, than a rape. |
| Position yourself in the square, at the front right of the statue, then follow a circle to view it from the eight points as permitted by its location. Position 2 is the direct front into the square. | 3 4 5 2 X 6 1 8 7 | Pos.1 look at the arms and hands Pos.2 this orientation has been chosen as the front, but the protagonist has his back to the square Pos.3 a most complex view with intersections of line and shadow. See the distress on the face of the victim. Pos.4 Need to go into the Loggia and stand in front of the pillar for this view. Arguably, this statue should be placed in the centre of the Loggia, where the statue of Menelaus is now, or in the centre of the square, with some protection overhead. Notice the arm and the delicate, flying feet. Here is also the best pair of buttocks in sculpture. Pos.5 see her hands. These are particularly well-viewed against the night sky. Pos.6 The victory of the protagonist is best exemplified in this 'rear' view. His arms enclose the woman and his legs enclose the defeated. Pos.7 look to the top hand and the thumb. One nipple points at the sky. Here the torso of the protagonist faces you, but not his face, which is actually absent as a focus on all sides (which may have been a device to bring the focus upon form rather than meaning). Pos. 8 would be considered a side on view, but for her navel. Notice the fingers again. |
| Walk across from the Loggia to the fountain of Neptune | | There is much to see in the square, the Loggia and the Palazzo Vecchio. Notice the satyrs around the fountain as you walk between the fountain and the horse and rider, who is Cosmo Medici. |
| Walk down the hill of Via Dei Gondi | | The reason why there is a slope here is that you are walking over the ancient Roman theatre seating that inhabited this position. The important looking building across Via Dei Leoni is the Courthouse. |
| The section below in bold print is the extension for option two of the tour. If you are on the short tour, turn left on Via Dei Leone and walk up until the Bargello is facing you from across the road. | | |
| Cross the road and walk along the narrow Via Dei Greci | | After about 50m, poke your nose into Via Dei Bentaccarchi on the right and observe the peacefulness of Piazza Dei Peruzzi. |
| Carry on to Piazza Santa Croce. Cross the road carefully looking right and proceed diagonally across the square to the statue of Dante. | | There is often a market here. This is the square where the insane traditional football match, the Pallio, takes place in the summer. You need to book tickets for that in advance. |
| At the statue of Dante, turn left into the narrow street Via Dei Pepi. When you reach Via Del Fico, look right and left, then continue on | | Via Del Fico is important later |
| Cross Via Ghibelina momentarily, we return in a minute, and continue half way up Via Dei pepi to number 15 on your left
| | This is the workshop of modern sculptor Antonio Di Tommaso. Not everyone appreciates modern art. It should be appreciated that the work done here is as much a part of the Florentine tradition as any other, and that museums will one day vie for the contents of this workshop as much as they today treasure the works of yesterday. Di Tommaso is at least as groundbreaking as much of the art you have already seen today. Like the Dessi mask shop, this work flowers now, right before your eyes. |
| We retrace back to Via Ghibellina turn right and cross the road. Go to the next road and take a short detour left onto Via Giovanni De Verrazzano. Go to the next intersection and stand in the middle of the road (if safe) facing down Via Del Fico | | Verrazzano, born near Florence, was a famous navigator who explored the east coast of the US in 1525 and discovered New York harbour. In this position, you will see people walk across the gap along Via Dei Pepi a bit like they are in a sort of slideshow. It is quite meditative. The door at the end of Fico sets it off nicely. Fico means fig. There are no fig trees behind you, however. |
| Back up to Via Ghibellina and left. Cross Via Giuseppe Verdi, looking left, and continue | | The Teatro Verdi is on the left. |
| Cross the next street and pause at the intersection of Ghibellina and Via Crocifisso | | On the corner with Via Crocifisso there is a modern art gallery that has free exhibitions, which change every few weeks. |
| Continue along via Ghibellina | | After about 50m you will see The Palazzo Borghese on the right. Notice also the ornate gnomish doorknockers on your left. The main portico entrance of Palazzo Borghese has a couple of Egyptian style Roman sculptures. Go into the portico and stare at them. You may notice that they are breathing. At the end of Ghibellina is the Bargello. Well worth a visit. Not now. |
| Cross the road at Via Del Proconsole and take a short detour to the left, about 15m. | | |
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| Short tour continues here | | See the notice on the wall that describes the location of the roman wall and the circle on the road which denotes the location of the wall tower. |
| Walk north along Via Del Proconsole and either enter the Badia or turn left on Via Dante Alighieri | The Badia | The building on your left, apart from the roadside shops, is the Badia, a church and monastic compound run by the Brothers of Jerusalem, who do many charitable works and who pray a great deal. If the door is open, enter the compound, but please note that tourist visits to the church are limited to certain hours. This is mainly because there are often prayers being held in the church. You may, of course, join the monks and nuns form prayers if you wish. I have in fact highlighted this location not for the art or architecture, which is worth looking at, but for the singing in worship by the members of the Badia, which is, plainly, divine. Mass is at 6pm. |
| Conitnue along Via Dante Alighieri to the Piazza Cimatori | | On the right, the house and museum of Dante. On the right, the chapel of San Martino, which has a story posted outside the door worth reading. In the piazza, during the day a food van that serves typical Tuscan delicacies, and the restaurant Ganino, popular at night. |
| | | Rather than taking the road to the main corso here, we snake our way back to the duomo via the side streets |
| Turn right onto Via Dei Cerchi. | | |
| At the end, take a quick left and immediate right onto Via San Elisabetta | | Notice the arch of Piazza Republicca as you turn. In the Piazza San Elisabetta there is an unusual round tower. As you leave that Piazza, don't look to the right down Vicolo Degli Alberighi, as there are often young lovers kissing there. You looked, didn't you? |
| Turn left on Via Del Oche | | If you turned right instead, you would come to the English bookshop |
| Turn right on Via Campanile | | At the end you are at the Piazza del Duomo. The door of the Duomo on the right is the normal entrance. The entrance to the Dome steps is on the opposite side. |
| Turn left and return to the point where you started. | | Once again let your eyes follow the line from the top of the Baptistry down and to the top of the Duomo and back again. |
| | | You may notice that your appreciation of the beauty of the Baptistry and Duomo is enhanced after the tour. This is because you have changed during it. The buildings are the same. |
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Links to information about the major points of interest covered on the tour
The Gates of Paradise
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Baptistry#Baptistery_doors
http://www.beckydaroff.com/arthistory/gates_of_paradise/gop.html
Alice's Masks
http://www.alicemasks.com/home.htm
Palazzo Davanzati
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palazzo_Davanzati
Giambologna's Rapine Delle Sabine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Rape_of_the_Sabine_Women
The Badia
http://www.dellepiane.net/feg.htm
Antonio De Tommaso
http://www.maestridarte.com/di_tommaso_antonio/di_tommaso_sculture.htm
Other recommended Florence tourist sites
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vjw/Florence.html
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/florence/off_beaten_path.htm
Sean David Burke is an accredited Tour leader in Western Australia, an English Teacher, former Steiner/Waldorf class teacher, former lawyer and Australian/Italian dual citizen. He is residing in Italy with his wife and children during 2009 in order to rediscover his Italian heritage and to learn Italian, which is by no means easy for an old dog.
Support and Feedback
If you have used this itinerary, please consider making a small donation, no more than a few euro, towards the costs of continuing to provide this service to others. This can be done through moneybookers account 'seandavidburke @yahoo.it'
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I am always very happy to receive feedback by way of comment, criticism or suggestion. Please email me at seandavidburke @yahoo.it
Sean David Burke 2009
Disclaimer
This self-guided itinerary is provided free of charge in the hope that it will enable a greater appreciation of Florence by tourists on a tight schedule. No liability is accepted by its author for any misadventure experienced by persons using it. Life is a wonderful and occasionally dangerous place: enter at own risk.
